Scarifying & Aerating

Scarifying

This is a service I provide for the removal of debris, thick thatch and dead moss. Lawns gather a great deal of rubbish during the year. Even when cutting lawn regularly, over time, the mower will drop enough cuttings to form a thatch layer. Thatch less than a half inch thick can be useful, it adds springiness and cuts down surface water loss. When thatch layer gets an inch or more in thickness, a semi waterproof cover is created. In summer it impedes proper aeration, and the downward passage of rain is restricted. The effect in autumn can be more serious, the thickening of turf, which normally takes place towards end of summer, is inhibited by thatch, and the constantly wet organic blanket encourages moss and disease to start taking hold. A heavy duty petrol scarifier machine is used to rake out all the old thatch and debris. Once debris is removed, sometimes, dependant on how much debris came out, an overseed, or part seed is required to help grass re-establish itself again.

Food for thought, for those wanting to carry out the physically demanding task of scarifying their own lawns, always make sure you scarify the opposite way to mowing. Overtime, if you cut your lawn, over and over in the same direction, grass learns to grow in that direction, so you need to scarify the opposite way to get the best removal of thatch. It’s a bit like running your fingers through your hair, if you run your hand through your hair, from top of head, to forehead, you will virtually have no resistance, but run your hair back up from forehead to top of head, and there is much more resistance, scarifying does the same thing on your lawn, in effect.

Aerating

This is a service I provide for lawns that have heavy compaction, which occurs in very clay areas of land, or through heavy foot traffic caused by lots of family parties, children playing etc. compaction usually occurs two to three inches below the surface, which builds up when the soil particles are squeezed together by heavy traffic. Spike holes need to be driven through the lawn, so that a vital air exchange can take place. Oxygen, so vital for grass root growth, gets into compacted layer, and carbon dioxide, so harmful, as it inhibits the passage of water into the grass roots, escapes. This now allows water, which can be vital during summer months, to get to the roots. In small, or patchy areas, a garden fork can be used, but if area is much larger, a machine is normally used.

Food for thought, tell tale signs that my lawn could be compacted. Waterlogging after rain, whereby surface water is not draining away on lawn, usually rapid browning in dry weather, moss is trailing across lawn, bare patches start occurring, although pets urinating on lawn can have same effect, and grass is less vigorous in growth, and is starting to thin.